Fashion

The 2013 Look Back: Best of Desi Couture

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Looking back at last year’s fashion weeks, I realize I witnessed the best of Pakistani desi couture at PFDC’s L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week! PFDC L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week (PLBW) 2013 happened in the city of Fashion, Art and Food lovers: LAHORE.

PLBWI personally call this bridal week ‘Pakistan Couture Week’.

This event was organized by the most promising fashionable organization, Pakistan Fashion Design Council. It was a three day event in which 17 Pakistani Couture Designers showcased their fancy creations and I was honoured to get an exclusive invite. I did not miss a single show, because I had to bring every fashionable detail of all the designers to you fashionable peeps, so here I am NOW with my latest observations about the couture collections 2014, starting from the very well known for its couture collections ‘HSY ‘opening his show.

 

HSY: Pakistan’s King of Couture

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Almost above 60% of women in Pakistan desire to wear Red on their big day, HSY is well aware of that fact and opened his show with a range of bridal-wear in Red and mixing it with its different tones like Maroon, Orange-Red etc.

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HSY the famous Pakistan’s King of Couture, showcased an opulent collection starting from different shades of Reds to Corals and closed his show by a subtle transfer of the Reds & Corals to Navy Blue in the end. All these colors were balanced with Copper, dull and rustic Gold embellished and embroidered surfaces and the finishes were done in tones like peach and nude colors. Motifs, embroidered and embellished surfaces were again his signature selling style, which I think a designer should never give up.

 

NOMI ANSARI

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This man knows the art of putting an array of colours in a design and still making it look expensive and luxurious. He used different mediums like Net, Cotton Net, Chiffon and different types of Silk fabrics, plain/printed and balanced the weights in almost each design. His clothes were creatively embellished and embroidered.

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I loved the color blocking done through embellishments. The superb fact is that he stuck to his signature style.

MISHA LAKHANI

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This was the first time I saw her work on the runway of PLBW 2013 and I am now a fan.

Peaceful to watch and pleasing to the eyes, there were intricate details and a very mature collection for women of all age groups. The impeccable workmanship on sheer fabric like net, layered over contrasting shirts, blouses and lowers is what made her collection unique.

 

SANA SAFINAZ: The Queen Sisters

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Famous for their luxury Ready-to-Wear line and Lawn prints, their Couture Line is also up to the notch.

From Fabrics to embellishments and from color palette to cut-lines, all of it were Awe-Inspiring. I get happy when someone showcases a fashionable collection, keeping themselves in the track that they are good at, which leads them towards their signature style. Their signature monochrome obsession was even seen in their formal wear. The appreciating part is the diverse combination of Zigzag lines and Floral prints mixed with traditional motifs. Something Innovative we would like to see for a change!

 

FAHAD HASSAYN

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Neither the strongest, nor the weakest.

The Indian influence in his styling and designs throughout his collection made him sail through the PLBW on a satisfactory level. I knew he would come out with some great pieces and he did. I think the shade of blue he used is very risky to work with and he was pretty successful to make that color work by treating it with dull and matte gold embellishments with brocade trims in the form of bold borders around the huge flares creating fierce fashionable waves. Fahad Hassayn‘s one of the strongest bridals out of his collection. I am also liking the men’s shirts and pajamas with all the work done on the neck area. I think Fahad has potential to throw kick ass collections in future, I prefer his creative luxury Ready-to-Wear more over his couture at the moment, but I know he will raise the bar soon.

 

ELAN BY KHADIJAH SHAH

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I think every Woman in Pakistan dreams to wear Elan at formal occasions.

Her PLBW couture collection 2014 was again a phenomenal collection. I know people accusing her for copying Manish Malhotra‘s designs, but to be honest Manish Malhotra‘s work looks inspired by Pakistani bridal wear most of the time.

The visuals of Elan‘s creations I am sharing are my favorites. The expensive materials embellished on sheer and delicate fabrics were astonishingly crafted and clothes were stitched to perfection, almost as if it were sewn on to the bodies of the runway ladies.

 

ALI XEESHAN

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Not comparing his work with anyone else but himself, it’s a very satisfactory collection, not his best.

Ali’s Ready-to-Wear collections and his previous PLBW couture collections were stronger than this one, but I love his work for being edgy and it takes a lot of courage to design over the top and edgy outfits when you’re dragging the inspiration out of the Mughal eras. It will take time for most of the people to accept his creations, but people have gradually started putting his clothes on and it’s going to a long way of that I am certain!

Asifa & Nabeel 2014

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It was a drama-free, serious show where models came out on the ramp one by one showcasing beautiful range of contemporary couture. A collection which I am a hundred percent sure will give the brand good business for the next couple of years. The balance in colors and embellishments done were in appropriate amount.

 

Sania Maskatiya

Sania Maskatiya

A big fan of Sania Maskatiya’s Ready-to-Wear, I don’t think I’m there with her Couture  line yet. She showcased a collection of formal wear with some great experimentation and although I like experimental designers who are ready to push the boundaries, while some of them were exceptionally successful, others were just beyond the border line.

 

KAMIAR 

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This designer served the grand finale of PFDC L’Oreal Paris Bridal Week 2013 well.

Kamiar’s Couture 2013 collection was a collection to admire. There were plenty of looks that were risky and very loud in the sense that there were a lot of things happening. From colours, textures to cut-line and layering, everything was well received and I believe that if someone cannot appreciate the beauty of his work… that someone doesn’t know art.

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Couture weeks are all about fashion designers expressing themselves, sometimes as an artist and sometimes as fashion business.

The best thing that should happen in a couture week is experimental work to some extent along with wearable stuff. Kamiar was among the ones who served both. Kamiar‘s collection, THE ORIENTALIST celebrated different cultures from all around the world. It was well constructed and cohesive in a way that each piece had his signature detailing like Jean Paul Gaultier does in his collections. Creative in a wearable way and the surfaces were created exquisitely though manual machines and hand work. Attention to details were lavishly rich with colors telling us a story in each look.

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Each piece was inspirational and living in Pakistan where people hardly know the worth of couture, he served it right.

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